The albuerge situation (Day 16)

A lot of people have been asking me about the places you stay on the Camino and how a germophobe like me deal with that situation. I still don’t know why I am doing the Camino (probably due to many reasons) but one of them was to reset myself with respect to travel and how I experience it.

Growing up in Turkey, while we were upper middle class, vacation meant pensions, basic accommodations, very basic restaurants. My dad was a natural explorer and he took us to non-touristy parts of Turkey at times with very little to no lodging options. I vividly remember my mom getting out the car checking the rooms/bathrooms of these very basic places often coming back and saying “no way”! For my Amarican friends imagine places where Motel 6 will feel as a major upgrade.

When I moved to US, I carried that with me and had absolutely no problem staying at a Super 8 motel in Santa Barbara for my first 3.5 weeks before dorms opened. Even early in our marriage, when we travelled Amy and I stayed in humble locations and ate at humble places.

As I got in to corporate America things radically changed. Now, I was staying in luxury resorts on business travel, vacations got fancier and fancier, and tasted business class for airfare. Essentially over a period of 7-10 years I became a travel snob and brought Amy with me (pretty much the only flaw she has). While both of their parents grew up normal, our children have never experienced basic, humble accommodations despite travelling extensively throughout the world. One of our shocking moments as parents was when one of of daughters told us “I don’t travel coach” as we were going from NY to Amsterdam to surprise their aunt (my sister) for her 50th Birthday. Sorry Gülbahar I know you still tell everyone you are 47! While Amy and I laughed about that comment it also shook us to our core as parents.

So on the Camino I promised myself that I will only stay in an upscale accommodation in the 4 major cities we will pass (Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Santiago). For everyday else my accommodation budget is 15 euros (I have cheated a couple of times to 20). As I was booking for some accommodations for the early part of the journey, Ellie was with me looking at my phone screen. I was booking a bed for 14 Euros and the website said “for 2 extra Euros you can get a private bathroom”. I proudly declined to a shocking moment for Ellie who said “dad - I will pay for it. Do it”.

So I have been roughing it out so to say on the Camino. Do I enjoy sleeping in dorm rooms sharing toilets/bathrooms with 30 people. Not really. But I believe it is theurapuetic for me to do so, therefore I continue doing it everyday. Below was my last nights bed. Was the room smelly? Yes! But I am re-learning what I knew as a child.

Today we hiked 29.5kms and passed the midpoint of the Camino. I can’t believe I already walked 400kms and only have 10 days left to see Amy.

Meseta is beautiful. It is miles and miles of plains and the towns are smaller, less developed and almost empty. Due to this many pilgrims skip the Meseta. But not this pilgrim!

Ellie - I am sharing beds where every 6 people get one bathroom and shower. There were no upgrade options. I would have called you for that 2 euros if they did.

Kms today: 29.5 kms

Kms total: 401 kms

Steps total: 158.4k Amy, 527k Ahmet

Photos from the day.