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Roncesvalles to Zubiri (Day 2)

  • tezelahm
  • Apr 2, 2024
  • 2 min read

Updated: Apr 4, 2024

Last night we had a chance to have our first pilgrim dinner at Roncesvalles. They way it works is that there are communal tables where you are randomly seated with other pilgrims. On our section there were pilgrims from France, Nederlands, UK, Canada and one other American from CA. Non of us knew each other till that moment. I pretended not to know Amy due to her layering clothes ensemble. For every four of us they had one bottle of local wine, one pitcher of water and only forks. While the food was very basic the experience itself was very enjoyable for both of us and is probably closest to I will ever get to a Hogwarts dinner. I should have taken a photo.




After dinner a few of us from our table went to the pilgrim mass at the church within the monastery. Amy didn't go as she wanted to ensure she showers before hot water ran out which we heard happens almost every night. The priest read out the countries of all the pilgrims there and gave a catholic communion ceremony in Spanish. Which I didn't understand a word of course but thought was calming and soothing. At the end he asked all of us (about 45-50) to come to the alter, turned off the lights in the church and gave his final farewell speech (which again I didn't understand) in the dark. While I only understood the repeated word "pelegrino" in the entire ceremony, being part of an experience that has been happening for over a thousand years will be something I won't forget. Below are some photos of the church.



Day 2:


Amy and I left the monastery around 7:15am. While the sun was coming up, due to the altitude, it was around freezing when we left. I took a photo with one of the most iconic road signs on the Camino as we left Roncesvalles.




The hike today was 25.5 km and we had to go up and down rolling hills for a total elevation change of ~4500 feet. The morning photos during sunrise and early morning are below.



Today we went through many small towns and one was called Burguete where Ernest Hemingway stayed and wrote about in "The Sun Also Rises". Below is a photo as Amy walked through the town.




The last part of the hike was a rather steep downhill where I remembered in the documentary "I will Push You" is where the wheelchair breaks apart. For those who watched it below is the photo that hopefully you will recognize. It was like this for about 3 kms. Photos don't do justice on the steepness of this downhill so I am still in awe how they brought a wheelchair down this route and without one of its wheels.



In the last section of our walk we walked with 3 Americans. A daughter (perhaps a little younger than us), her dad and uncle both in their late 60's or so. They are from Kansas and walking the whole route on a pace similar to mine. Really enjoyed meeting them and hope to see them again.


Kms today: 25.5

Kms total: 54

Steps total: 76.5k Amy, 72k Ahmet







 
 
 

6 Comments


christyoverall3
Apr 05, 2024

"I pretended not to know Amy due to her layering clothes ensemble." took me out.

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Ellie
Apr 03, 2024

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Amy Tezel
Amy Tezel
Apr 03, 2024
Replying to

Ummm, is that what you meant to post Ellie?

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Jeffrey Rice
Jeffrey Rice
Apr 02, 2024

Congratulations! You already made it farther than I expected ;)

It looks like an amazing experience say hello to Amy for me!

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Amy Tezel
Amy Tezel
Apr 02, 2024
Replying to

Hey Jeffrey! You would love this - you should add it to your list of upcoming adventures…

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