A Promise and a Miracle (Day 3)

Promise:

Last night we stayed at a small albergue in Zubiri that only has 11 beds. It is owned by Sara, a mid thirties, soft spoken, kind and small woman perhaps just slightly taller than 5 feet. She has a mini reputation in the Camino forums as an amazing chef from Navarra.

Sara was inspirational for both me and Amy. She takes care of this small albergue by herself with the 4 rooms all spotless, every part of the hostel basic, humble yet warm. She takes care of the facility, washes and folds the laundry of all her guests but what is unique is that at night she serves her 11 guests (she is always booked) a 5 course gourmet meal inspired by the region. Every dish is special with regional garnishes, ingredients and her custom recipes. It was by far the best meal both of us had in along time. But what makes it truly special is her dedication and pride towards her job. She is constantly smiling, full of energy and does this as it is her very last day doing it. She exudes warmth and humility. Amy and I thought a dinner with this quality would be about 300 dollars plus alcohol in NY for 2. The cost of it to us was the standard pilgrim menu cost of 14 Euros per pilgrim. I felt, for Sara that doesn't matter and she serves proudly her craft with attention to detail you will see in a Michelin rated restaurant.

In the Camino a tradition is to make 5 or so promises to yourself. My first one was today as I hiked towards Pamplona. Moving forward, in my professional career, every time I feel frustrated or disengaged due to whatever reasons, I will remember Sara and her commitment to her craft and the pride she had doing it every day. Attached is the photo from last night. On the table we had people ranging from Jamaica to New Zeeland.

By this time people started to know who is who in the Camino. For example the Russian guy with the 45lb backpack (almost everyone else is under 20lbs), the so called serial killer (a guy who doesn't talk to anyone and doesn't smile), the extra chatty Brit and the one creepy dude who just walks nexts to single women trying to charm them. I don't know how people describe me but I hope it is the Big, Bald and Beautiful guy with the 7 layer woman.

Today we walked 23.5 kms with an elavation change of 2950 ft. In the morning we bought a fresh bagette and cheese from a tiny market on the Camino owned by Oliver. He is originally from Belgium but told us the Camino called him a decade ago and he moved to Navarra. Happiest store owner. He told Amy I was a very beautiful boy and and that she is a very lucky woman. I reminded her that comment a few times today. Below is a photo with Oliver.

Once again we had a beautiful sunrise and views and after hiking for 10k we stopped at a riverside cafe where we we run into and shared snacks with Joe (which I first met on the train), Frank (a comedian from LA who we sat at the pilgrim dinner on our first night and Margaret (a very friendly Dutch women we met before). I plan to ask my brother in law Jan De Maa why so many Dutch are doing the Camino. There are a lot of Dutch on the Camino!!! And last year according to the pilgrims office only 23 Turks walked on the Camino. Knowing my people I doubt many finished it 😀.

We arrived to Pamplona around 2pm by crossing a bridge and entering the town from the old gates. Tonight we are treating ourselves with a nice hotel at the town center. Tomorrow, is Amy's last hike day and then she will fly back home. I certainly will miss her a lot for the next 23 days before she comes back.

The Miracle:

People walk the Camino for many different reasons and some in hope of a miracle. In my case the combination of 1800 mg of daily Ibuprofen and the power of St James seems to have healed my knee. It is a miracle because it healed as I walked 77.5kms in 60 hrs. I want to believe St James had more to do with it.

Kms today: 23.5

Kms total: 77.5

Steps total: 117.7k Amy, 108.5k Ahmet